I really wasn’t planning on another trip with the team at BikerBnB this year – after all, I’ve just got back from The Alps, and next week I’ll be heading to Corsica for the proper big holiday. But a couple of months back I was feeling a little lost, and needed to do something life affirming. I looked at the calendar, and while I couldn’t fit in another trip to Scotland, there was a trip to Ireland that fitted nicely between the Alps and Corsica trips. However, it was fully booked. I fired off a hopeful email to Tim, asking him to let me know if anyone cancelled, and within about 15 minutes I had a reply, that a single space had just become available, and would I like it? The deposit was paid about 12 seconds later, and I marked the dates in the calendar. There was really very little planning to be done as the BikerBnB team take care of everything to do with the logistics of the trip. All I needed to do was service the bike, get some new tyres fitted, and get an MOT on it. All of which happened quickly and easily over the course of the few weeks leading up to the event.
Wednesday 12 August
Normally, for these trips, I’d start the recollection of each day with a little map, showing my route. However, this isn’t entirely possible here due to a phone disaster – more of which later. You’ll also notice that the photos for this post are higher than usual quality. This is purely because I took none of them. As well as losing a lot of my chat history (the team use WhatsApp to communicate and share locations and directions) I also lost all my photos. Now, before anyone comes up with “why don’t you back them up?” there are a few answers to that question. Firstly, I don’t really use Google for anything other than having an Android phone, and maps. I don’t use them for file storage, mail, contacts, anything really. This is a conscious decision on my part, not to give away my data to be used for training AI models. Instead, I keep my phone as stripped back as possible, and use Proton as an EU based encrypted service for storage. Secondly, well, it’s a chat history – I don’t really see the need to have a backup of every conversation I have.
Right then, with that out of the way, let’s get started. As with the Scotland tours, this one was to start in Edinburgh at the BikerBnB HQ. So, as with previous years I pottered up from home near Cambridge to stay on Teesside the night before, to split the journey into two. Everything was packed and ready, and I wheeled the bike out of the garage and very nearly decided at the last second to take the big BMW rather than the little Scram. However, the panniers were already packed on the Scram, so I decided on that. I left home some time around midday or so I’d guess. It was hot and sunny. Very hot and sunny. We were at the tail end of the driest, hottest summer on record, and the South of the country had been in a state of drought for some weeks now. It was notable as I rode through the scorched, buckled landscape just how brown everything was. The roadside verges, fields, hedgerows. Other than the trees, every piece of the landscape was barren and parched. And if anyone reading this doesn’t believe in climate change, open your fucking eyes. (As I write this, I’m reading reports of the catastrophic events in Nepal and Tibet caused, it would appear, by a glacier collapse). The ride up the A1 was dull as it always is, and other than fuel stops the wheels never stopped turning. I got to Yarm at about 4pm or so and stopped for coffee and a pastry. Yarm is a lovely little place, and sitting on the high street on a sunny day with nothing planned for the next few days other than riding and making new friends was the life-affirming moment that I needed.
And as with previous years, I popped into the Masham for a pint in the evening while the solar eclipse happened around me. Cheers Patrick.
Thursday 13 August

I had strict instructions to be at the HQ before 9am, and had about a 3hr or so ride up from Hartburn to Edinburgh. With this in mind I set an alarm for 04:45 and was on the road by 05:15. It was still dark at that time, and chilly. I was wearing a single thin shirt under my jacket, and my summer gloves. Within about 30 minutes I couldn’t feel my fingers any more. I really should have stopped and swapped gloves (I had two spare pairs in the panniers – one set of three season gloves, and also my properly warm and waterproof full winter gloves. More of this later, along with what happened to the phone, you can probably start working things out by now…) but instead I pressed on. I stopped for fuel just outside of Alnwick, and even though my hands weren’t working, I still didn’t swap gloves. I’m such an idiot at times. I’d determined that I’d fill up again just before Edinburgh so I didn’t need to stop for fuel on the way to the ferry, but by the time I’d got as far as Dunbar I still had the best part of half a tank left. I stopped anyway for coffee as much as anything else to give my hands something warm to wrap around before setting off again for the last leg of the journey into Edinburgh. By this time it was 8am or so, and the sun was getting going. I had finally stopped shivering as I pulled into the HQ to be met by Steve and Tony with big smiles and a cup of tea. And as always, I started getting to meet the other riders for the week, immediately forgetting everyones name. John and Kev I recognised from previous tours, but everyone else was new. And unlike previous years, I was the only rider on a 411 – the previous rental Himalayan and Scram 411s had been replaced with a lovely fleet of 450 Himalayans and Guerillas.

The original plan was to take a leisurely ride cross country to arrive at Stranraer sometime around 3pm for the 5pm ferry, with a leisurely lunch in Moffat. What actually happened due to a luggage disaster at the airport was a mad rush where we just about squeaked into the ferry port at 4pm. Well, most of us did anyway – Bob had taken a wrong turn somewhere and there was no way he would make the 5pm crossing. However, the P&O crew were happy to take him on the later crossing that evening, so no problem. The crossing to Larne was pretty quick (a couple of hours I’d guess?) and before we knew it, we were riding the short hop to the Ballygally Castle Hotel for our first stop on the tour. We all relaxed over a drink and food, and started to get to know each other a little better. It had been a long day, so I made my excuses quite early and as soon as my head hit the pillow, I was in the land of nod.
Friday 14th August

From here on in, my memories are a little hazy as I have no notes to fall back on… But let’s see what I can remember. The plan for the day was to ride to Donegal, and stop at the Shandon Hotel and Spa, just outside of Marble Hill. As always, we split into two groups – A, for the more spirited and confident riders, and B for the more inquisitive riders who would want to stop for photos and generally take more time over the ride. Steve immediately picked Kev, Mark and myself for the A group as “I couldn’t lose you yesterday”. Everyone else plumped for the B group.

The hotel car park was right on the coast, and we had the daily riders meeting here. The planned lunch stop was in Derry for a pub lunch at The Blackbird. But, no sooner had we got into Derry when the A group got split at a set of traffic lights, leaving me on my own to try to find the place. Which I did, but only after a couple of stops to double check the route and a rather naughty hop over a pavement to reach the car park after I rode straight past the assigned entrance. It was nice to be back in an Irish pub after all these years, and the food was good, but it was a little noisy for me in the pub, so once I’d eaten I shuffled out to the car park and had a good chat with Zach, who was also enjoying the scenery rather than the noise. Zach explained that he’d never really ridden outside of West Texas, so the concept of corners was rather unsettling him, and the prospect of rain over the next few days was also going to be a bit of a novelty. I really can’t remember much about the afternoon ride to the hotel, so I’m going to assume that nothing untoward happened. One thing that I do remember clearly though was chasing Tony, our group leader on a Guerilla 450 through some breathtaking scenery. And as I did, something seemed odd, and it took me a while to put my finger on it, but then it hit me – everything was green again. This corner of Ireland takes a lot of rain during any year, and this year was really no different. It was pretty much the only part of the UK that had escaped the drought completely. Tony seemed to be having an absolute whale of a time, and it was bloody hard work sticking with him on the little Scram. I made a mental note to ask for a test ride when I could hold of one. The hotel was pretty posh, with lovely comfy rooms and a nice bar and restaurant. Chatting with Rob and Amanda before dinner, I learned that the trip formed part of their honeymoon, so a glass (or two or more) was raised to celebrate. What a brilliant day.
Saturday 15th August

This was quite a big ride today – from Donegal to Sligo along the Wild Atlantic Way. The A group had been joined by Rob and Amanda, and we were led today by Tim along some brilliantly gravelly nadgery little single carriageway lanes.

These are the little Scrams happy hunting grounds, and I had no problem at all staying with the group today. And while the morning was largely dry other than a few little light showers, the afternoon was definitely wet enough to need proper waterproofs. And given that Amanda had never ridden anything bigger than a little Kawasaki 230, she was doing a proper job on the Guerilla. At the risk of sounding patronising, it was bloody lovely to see two youngsters getting on and riding bikes for adventure and fun. It’s notable that motorcycling seems to be turning into an old mans game, certainly in the UK. Or perhaps it’s just that I’m turning into an old man along with all my riding buddies. I think that’s more likely the case.

We stopped for the evening at the Clayton Hotel, in Sligo. This is a massive old pile (a former mental hospital, it turns out) and is now a rather swanky hotel. That said, it was probably my least favourite of the week – I’m not really sure why, I just didn’t feel comfortable there. The room was OK, food was pretty good, but the place just seemed to lack a little soul and character. Again, I suspect this reflects more on me than on the hotel as there was nothing wrong with it.
Sunday 16th August

Rain. Lots and lots of rain greeted us this morning.

And the plan was to ride down to Galway, so another long day on the road. It was absolutely a day for full on waterproofs and as previously mentioned, I’d fortuitously packed my proper winter gloves. And while I’m perfectly waterproof, I can confirm at this point that my phone absolutely wasn’t. As we rode into Keel for lunch it was apparent that the screen, which had been flickering off and on for the past few miles was now just showing a solid and rather fetching luminous green colour. We got into the pub for lunch, whereupon I popped the back off the phone, and a small puddle accumulated on the table. I dried it out as best I could, and hoped for the best. At first there were a few streaks of colour on the screen, rather like a Sinclair Spectrum loading screen, then nothing. I could feel the phone was booting OK by the little vibrations it was making, but without a screen, I was effectively carrying a paperweight for the the rest of the trip. As well, I had no navigation, no alarm clock, and no way to contact anyone in case of emergency. I’m very glad that I was carrying my bank cards with me, and not relying on my phone for payments, otherwise I’d still be sitting somewhere near Galway at a petrol station with no way to pay to get home again.

I borrowed Tom’s phone to text Faye to let her know that I’d be out of touch for a few days, and asked her to reply to confirm that she’d got the message. When we arrived at Galway some six hours or so later, there was no response, but I wasn’t too worried at this point. The evening was spent in The Twelve Hotel, just outside of Galway, and this was really very cool indeed. I’m making plans to whisk The Lovely Faye away for a weekend there sometime soon. I’m pretty sure that today was also John’s birthday, and he was treated to a very rowdy and almost entirely off-key rendition of Happy Birthday from us all.
Monday 17th August
No map today, due to the phone disaster. But in the morning there was still no response from Faye to my text, so I borrowed John’s phone to give her a call.
“Did you get my text yesterday? Sorry, but I’ve broken my phone.”
“Oh, yes, but I thought it was a scam so didn’t bother replying…”
The pitfalls of modern communications. The plan today was to ride firstly down to the Cliffs of Moher, and then turn around, ride along the coast of The Burren, and then turn inland to start the haul back home, and stop in Carrick upon Shannon.
The ride down to the cliffs was along the narrowest roads of the tour so far, and it was absolutely top fun. I remember clearly, barrelling along a particularly nadgery little section, thinking how lucky I’d been to pick the little Scram over the big BMW for this trip. We got to the cliffs, but there was a monumental queue for parking, and it was €15 each, to park a motorbike. So we didn’t bother – we turned around and dropped into a little coffee shop that we’d passed a couple of kms back up the road. It was the absolute best coffee and cake of the whole week, no question. Moher Cottage coffee shop. If you’re in the area, please drop in. Finding this place by accident made the whole week a lot better, as much for the big smiles and love from the ladies on the counter.

The afternoon ride was punctuated with an absolute brain-out moment on a two mile long straight. I just got right down onto the tank of the bike and wound it wide open, up to a crescendo of 130km/h – the fastest I’ve ever seen from the little Scram. All too soon, we washed up in Carrick on Shannon, and checked into The Landmark Hotel, among a cacophony of screaming fire alarms and staff running around the place. It was brilliant – a proper fawlty towers moment with a growing queue of customers at the desk.
Tuesday 18th August
This was the last ride of the tour – back to Stranraer, and then stopping in the Creebridge Hotel in nearby Newton Stewart. And despite being the one freshest in my memory, very little stands out really. Other than the road conditions deteriorating horribly once we left the Republic of Ireland and crossed the border. We did get quite badly lost in Enniskillen, but found our way to a rather super little cafe for coffee and cakes. At which point I made another mental note to eat nothing but salad and drink nothing but water when I got back home again, to try to lose a few kgs before attempting the ride down to Corsica. I had planned to ride the spare Guerilla today to get a feel for it, but that never happened due to the logistics of pulling everyones bags out of the back of the van to get to it, and having to put them all back again once we got to the ferry port. Given the events of day one, it was determined that any extra complications on the day may not be a Good Thing. But nothing went wrong (other than getting lost in Enniskillen…) and we made it to the ferry with plenty of time to spare. Whereupon the heavens opened lavishly and spectacularly, as a final parting gift from The Emerald Isle.
The evening was brilliant. The hotel is a proper old style family run hotel, the polar opposite of the Clayton in Sligo. It had character oozing out of every nook and cranny.

We were given our own dining room for the evening and had the best time recounting stories of the week, and promising to keep in touch.

Mark and I were to head straight back South in the morning, while the rest of the tour completed the short leg back to Edinburgh and the official end of the route. It really had been the best of weeks, weather notwithstanding.
Epilogue
The ride home was undertaken in even further, absolutely ferocious rain once I got past about Carlisle. Mark and I set off together, but when we stopped for the first time for fuel, it was agreed that we’d split up to allow him to use the power of his BMW to make progress through the rain. I stopped once more for fuel somewhere near the M62/A1 junction, and again near Peterboghorror to take off my waterproofs now that I’d returned to the parched landscape of The South. I got home at about 4pm, and popped the kettle on. And as with the previous BikerBnB trips, I came back a happier person than I went. Long may it continue. I have rekindled old friendships, and made new ones. I have seen new places. I have experienced great company, food, landscapes. I’ve shared laughter, stories, drinks and hugs.

Remember at the start of this, I said that I needed something life affirming? This fitted the bill, perfectly. Thanks all. I can’t recommend these tours highly enough. The logistics and planning that go into something like this are non-trivial, yet everything just works. Even when things don’t go 100% to plan, the team can always find a solution, all the while with big smiles.
Total distance – 2915kms. If I’d known that, I would’ve taken a longer route home to make the round 3000.
Epilogue the second – the phone lives to fight another day. One of the nice things about using a Fairphone is the ability to replace bits of it that break. I ordered a new screen, fitted it, and it just works again. OK, I’ve lost a lot of my WhatsApp chat history but that’s my fault for using it via the web and synching to another phone that had no chat history saved. Lesson learned.
All photos here were taken by tim@bikerbnb.com – I’ve got a pile more from others on the tour, which I need to go through and will upload a few more. But if you want to see Tim’s collection, have a look at https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/427016f11b9b43c49ab4ea7e0a5ca03d – some lovely images.






















