I’ve not written anything in ages. Actually, that’s not strictly true – I spent a good few weeks writing an essay on how I feel about Englishness today, how things have changed over the years, and how it’s not always been easy fitting in with a funny name. That took quite a while, but it all ended up incredibly introspective and of no real interest to anyone, so it went in the bin. I might resurrect the idea sometime, but I’m very aware that it’s a subject that merits conversation rather than a monologue. And as well as that, I’ve been making lots of odd noises with the analog synth project. This is still very much ongoing, and there’s definitely more to write about there with the final fixing of the MIDI problems and a few more modules being built and fitted. I’m having a huge amount of fun with this – but I think before I write anything else, I need to invest in phase II of the project, which will involve many more evenings of soldering but should end up with a rhythm section to go alongside the boingy noises.
But I’m not here to talk about things that didn’t happen, or things that may never happen. For ages now I’ve had a bit of a road trip planned with a few mates, taking the Little Scram down to The Alps via a roundabout route, and spending a few nights under canvas. The first attempt at a plan was for me to ride to Calais to meet up with Mike and Ken, then the three of us ride to Geneva to meet Michael, Al and Sylvain, and from there, hit The Alps. And despite my normal planning abilities, this is pretty much exactly what happened. We nearly included a flying visit from Paul on his way to the World Ducati Week, but timings didn’t quite work out there. A shame, but I guess there’s always next year for that one. So we had a plan, we had some dates, and I booked a ticket on the Shuttle to get me to Calais early morning of 19th June. I already had all the camping gear that I needed, but decided at the last minute to replace my sleeping bag with something more suited to the weather forecast, and also a bit smaller to pack down than my current (and 20 year old…) three season bag. I know that I’m turning into a bit of a walking advert for Alpkit every time I go camping, with my tent, sleeping bag, mat, pillow, and stove. And torch. And chopsticks, come to think of it. I also bolted a bidon carrier onto one of my panniers so I could carry a bottle of water out in the breeze. Which in hindsight, was one of the best modifications I’ve ever made to any bike that I own.
And when I said early, I meant it. I left home at 2am, with the plan to get to Folkestone for 04:30, jump on the 06:30 train, and then meet up with Ken and Mike in the Aire de Zutkerque just outside of Calais sometime around 08:45ish local time. I was a little bit unsure of what to wear for the trip, as for sure, the morning ride was chilly – but the forecast was for potential record breaking heat over the coming week. And it’s a nice demonstration of just how effective and adaptable modern riding kit is, as I just picked my lightweight mesh jacket with a few layers underneath that I could strip off and throw in the panniers as we got further South. 40 years ago I wouldn’t have had the choice – I had a leather jacket and that was it. I always like these early morning starts, riding through the mist, watching the sun rise. I’m not sure that my neighbours are quite so keen though, so I’m always exceptionally careful to keep the noise down when I set off! But my clothing choice was good – there was a definite chill through the vents on my lid, which made my senses sing. But I was comfy as the miles slipped by down to Folkestone. The little Scram is very good at night riding. Not so much because of any exceptional lighting, more because it’s so slow that you’ve always got good visibility for the safe braking distance. And while I could have got to Folkestone easily on one tank of fuel, it would have left me a little short in France, so I dropped into the Maidstone services to fill up before the crossing. Which would have been easy, but it soon became obvious that no fuel would be forthcoming – I wandered over to the nightpay kiosk, took off my helmet and removed my earplugs, to be told curtly “pay before you fill up for bikes”. I similarly curtly replied “Fuck off then” and rode to the next services to fill up. The crossing itself was uneventful, which I’ll take as a good sign, and 35 mins or so later I was disgorged into the French road system at rush hour. This was remarkably pleasant, as there are no pot-holes to worry about, driving standards are amazingly good compared to the UK, the motorways seem to be adequately sized for the amount of traffic, and the signage is clear and well-maintained. I can only imagine what French drivers must think when they come to the UK. It’s like a third world country in comparison. I puttered along at 110km/h (I’m using a lovely little app called Digihud to give me a good clear km/h display on my phone) and settled into the Aire de Zutkerque a good 45 mins ahead of schedule. So I did the only sensible thing, and stretched out on the grass to have a snooze in the morning sunshine.

Ken and Mike turned up right on time, and I stripped down to a single layer under my jacket as we carried on. It was only 9am, but the temperature was already getting up into the mid 20s and it was only going to get hotter as we headed South during the day. The plan was simple – ride for 150kms or so, stop for fuel and coffee, and then onto the Reims area on the motorway before heading onto local roads towards the campsite at Châtillon-sur-Seine. And that’s pretty much exactly what happened really – we stopped for fuel and had a pit-stop for coffee and croissants before heading off again, aiming to make the next Aire before midday as that was when Mike was due to take his meds. Only the planned stop was closed, so we had to make a bit of an unscheduled stop on the hardshoulder under a bridge for a bit of shade while he necked his tabs with a swig of water. And as planned, we got to Reims and then headed onto the local roads through the Champagne region. This was a bit of a moment for me, as my mum and dad toured France on an Ariel Leader back in the early 1960s and today would have been my dad’s birthday so I wished him a happy birthday as we sped through the vineyards in the heat. Did I mention that the temperature was now already up in the mid 30s? That bidon of water on the pannier was coming in very useful every time we stopped. Lunch was a quick supermarket raid where I filled up on Orangina, pastries and 3D Bugles. I love a healthy diet. After lunch we headed through a forested area which was glorious as it was a good 2 or 3 degrees cooler than elsewhere, but all too soon that was over and we were into cornfields and some fairly intense heat. We finally rolled into the campsite at about 4pm, put the tents up, and grabbed an icy cold beer from the campsite office to slake the thirst from the hot dusty road. Dinner was a pizza in a brilliant little restaurant where we communicated in CSE grade French, occasionally assisted by Google translate and were served some excellent food and a couple more cold beers. The walk back to the campsite seemed a lot longer than the walk there, but we were all getting tired after the hot day. Thousands of swifts darted excitedly around above us as the heat of the day drained away, and we got back to the campsite at around 9:30 or so. There was no talk of sitting up for “just one more beer” as we all retired to our tents and very quickly, the land of nod arrived.

I slept very well indeed, despite the overnight heat. I just lay on top of the sleeping bag, and that was it really. I woke sometime around 06:30 and although I could hear Mike and Ken rummaging around outside, I stayed put. I don’t often just laze and waste time, but I did here. I wanted to enjoy the moment of listening to a French campsite coming to life, and just spend 20 minutes with my own thoughts. But of course, things needed to happen. First of which was tea. And top marks to the Brew Tea Company teabags. I’m a bit of a snob about tea. I like proper Assam tea, from a pot not a bag. But when camping the options are limited, so to find an acceptable teabag is a proper moment worth noting. Decamping was very quick as the little Alpkit tent just falls apart and into the panniers in ten minutes flat, and we were on the road well before 8am. First stop was a brilliantly French streetside cafe for coffee and pastries, before starting the journey proper and hitting a little petrol station where we were treated to the owner making a massive performance of switching on a coffee machine with theatrical hand gestures and lots of Gallic huffing and puffing. And then I dropped in behind Mike who had the route planned and followed the first couple of hours South. Until, that is, we hit the lower slopes of the Col de la Faucille. I remember this climb. I’ve done it before, and I knew there was good coffee at the top. The day had been long, and I wanted to stretch my legs a bit, so I made a bit of a naughty pass on Mike into a tight left, and just nailed it. And immediately after the corner there were two Gendarmes sitting in a lay-by just waiting to catch the idiot racing his mates… I made the generic Euro peace sign with my fingers as I didn’t back off at all, and was greeted with a wave back. No problem. The next 10kms up the Col were perfect. Every now and then I’d check my mirrors and just roll off a little when I opened a gap, but otherwise it was a properly flat-out thrash to the top, where we stopped, and had the best coffee while the bikes cooled down. And I had another moment where I considered just how lucky I am to have this on my doorstep – a flat out rag to the top of a col where I can stop and get a perfect cup of coffee with a view over Lake Geneva. We stretched the coffee stop out as long as we could, but had to get going again – and the last stretch of the day was pretty short, down to Chancy to meet up with Michael and Jackie once more. But more importantly, Sid and Columbine – the family cats. Columbine is a grand old lady – 19 years old now. And as soon as I threw my jacket into a pile on the floor, she curled up in it and made it her home for the next two days. I’m very flattered by this turn of events. Sid is a huge ginger ball of tomcat weighing in at 7kgs but a massive softie. Who spent the whole night purring like a Deltic locomotive at tickover and licking my ear as I was trying to sleep. Despite the attentions, I slept well. Now here’s a thing worth mentioning. I very rarely dream, that I am aware of. And when I do, it’s normally not pleasant, leading to a bit of the screaming ab-dabs while I try to wake myself up. And when I dream, it’s not visual, it’s just a series of feelings that I struggle to recall. But this evening, as I slipped away, I definitely found myself back in my old teenage bedroom for some reason. I’d love to know what triggered that memory as it’s not something I’ve consciously thought about for decades now. I still couldn’t describe to you what it looked like but I knew exactly where I was and it felt very comforting.

Sunday was a rest day. We motored into Montreux, and had a lovely lunch and just pottered. Again, when I’m doddering around in my bathchair I’ll look back on days like this and remember how great it was to be European. I’m not going to get all Ben Elton about things, but bloody hell we’ve made it very difficult for the UK for the next generation. I’m sorry. I didn’t vote for it. And I’ll leave it there. Dinner was a massive plate of bobotie – a classic South African dish – thanks to Michael. Sylvain and Al had turned up by this time to complete the pack of six riders for the next week, and the evening was spent relaxing in the garden. And while we all kind of knew each other it was lovely to reinforce the connections we had, and share some truly dreadful jokes over a beer.
We set alarms for 06:30 next morning to try to be away by 08:00 to at least get a few hours riding in the cool of the morning. Sid left me largely alone for the evening, although I could still feel him curled up at the foot of the bed. I’m absolutely sure that this is because he knows that I’m allergic to cats. All too soon, the alarm went off and I wandered into the kitchen for a cup of tea to start the day. Myself, Ken and Mike needed a fuel stop quite soon so the decision was made for the three of us to ride to the Chancy petrol station at the top of the hill before we all set off. I was ready a few minutes before anyone else so wandered outside to the bike, and noticed a small puddle of oil underneath it. That’s odd – it’s never ever leaked oil before now. I really would have noticed as it lives in the garage so any oil on the floor there is instantly recognisable. However, I couldn’t rule out that I’d accidentally parked over a patch of oil the day before. I had a good feel around the bottom of the engine and it was all dry so I just popped up the hill to the petrol station and filled up. The early morning chill was lovely through the vented jacket – I’d deliberately dressed lightly underneath as I knew the temperature would be getting up as we went through the day. After only minimal faffing we all set off following Michael out of Chancy pretty much on the dot of 08:00. The first site of any note was Le Plateau des Glières. It was a wonderfully wibbly little road up to the plateau, and then a ride through the most perfect Alpine meadow (even though it’s probably not actually in The Alps, but you get the idea) past the memorial to the Maquis des Glières, and onto a little bit of gravel track. I’d had a chat with Mike about this the day before, as he wasn’t 100% confident of his ability to ride off-road. The plan was that I would follow him, and if he got a bit wobbly, he’d just stop, and I’d ride his bike to the end of the gravel. However, he rode superbly confidently for his first forays into gravel tracks, and there was no drama whatsoever. Secretly I enjoyed this little bit of offroad as my tyres are designed for exactly this kind of territory. So while I was giving away some grip to everyone else in the road sections, I could get to enjoy this little bit knowing that I had a bit of a machine advantage here. Past the plateau we picked up the Route des Grandes Alpes and tucked in with the million BMW GS riders on the same route. Coffee was at the Col des Aravis, and immediately after leaving there we got split up into two groups of three at a set of roadworks. No worries, as we met up again (after a bit of a wait) at the Cormet de Roselend where we had the most delicious food served by the nicest waitress in the world. The sun was high in the sky by now, and I was sitting on a col eating French food in good company. All was very well in my pink and fluffy little world. Next up was the big one – the Col de l’Iseran. The highest paved pass in the alps. And it was getting hot as we rolled into Bourg-Saint-Maurice for fuel. As well as the million BMW GSs on the road, there was an increasing number of Vespas too – I later found out that they were all heading into Italy for the 80th year celebration of the marque. And while the riding standards were generally pretty good, some of the passes that these little bikes were putting on us up the cols in an effort to maintain momentum were questionable to say the least. The absolute worst riding I saw though was from a couple of GS riders. Rider #1 passed me with probably 20cm to spare as we approached a r/h hairpin on one of the cols. I had probably 50cm between my right handlebar and the rockface, and 20cm to the fat idiot on the GS to my left as he tried to run deep into the corner. I braked harder to let him past, and fuck me, if his mate behind didn’t take that as an invitation to do exactly the same thing, even closer. But by this time I was already starting to turn into the hairpin, so couldn’t do anything on the brakes to give him room. I just laid it over even further to ensure that I didn’t run him into the oncoming traffic on the way out of the corner as the colossal fuckwit thrupenny-bitted his way around my the outside of me, still in my lane, on a blind hairpin. Hey ho.

The run down the Iseran was absolutely fantastic. The little Scram was able to make up some ground on the bigger bikes here, at least until I abused the brakes one too many times and they started fading. But I was absolutely in my element, and had images of Tom Pidcock on some of his madder descents in the Tour de France. We rolled into the campsite, threw the tents up and wandered into town for a cold beer and steak frites. The beer really didn’t last long at all – it had been a long hot day on the road and we all spent the evening chatting away before heading back to camp relatively early. Clouds had been building in the afternoon in the mountains, as is typical in the region in hot weather, and a spectacular sunset slowly unveiled itself over the mountain ridge as we wandered back. Not a bad day, as they go.

Tuesday was a big day – the plan was to carry on down the valley from Lanslebourg, then sharp left over the Col du Télégraphe and then the Galibier. After that, turn left, into Italy via the Col de Montgenèvre, and back to Lanslebourg via the Col du Mont Cenis. Yeah, a big day out for sure. And it was my turn to lead up to the left turn towards Italy. And it was brilliant. Another early start to get a few hours in the cool, and easy navigation. Forgive me, for my old memory isn’t great these days and my notes are a bit spare for the first part of the day, so the spin over the Télégraphe is kind of lost in the mists of time now. I guess that nothing untoward happened, else I would have mentioned it – we did stop at the top for coffee and a chat with a bunch of intrepid cyclists from Brighton. The Galibier, however, I do remember. Mostly I remember just how much I want to go back with my bicycle. What a road – I can see why it’s absolutely etched into Tour de France folklore. And again, as at the Col de l’Iseran, at the top we were well above the snowline but the midday sun was beating down on us. And even though I’ve got quite a dark skin, I was slathering on the Factor 50 up there. It’s a hostile environment as evidenced by the sunburn after the whole avalanche incident a few years back. The little parking spot at the top of the Galibier was a bit overcrowded so we didn’t stay long, and again, the descent from the high cols is somewhere that the little Scram absolutely excels. Once we got to the bottom of the valley we stopped for lunch (pizza, which was a bit of a staple this week…) and again, I was in a very happy place indeed. Michael then led us up over the Montgenèvre and into the cool tunnels leading into Italy. One thing that stood out here, and I’m not making any political statement, is the number of refugees that we saw wandering through the tunnel from Italy into France. I counted at least 10, in the space of about three kms. You need to be absolutely at your wits end to attempt to walk through a three km, dark road tunnel with HGVs roaring past 20cm away. But finally, I was riding in Italy – something I’ve looked forward to for, well, since I started riding motorbikes I guess. Obviously I’ve been to Italy many times but this was the first time on two wheels and I revelled in the feeling of an ambition achieved. The stark comparison between the affluent Southen French Alps and the dereliction of Northern Italian Alps was quite apparent as we rode through old villages of abandoned buildings. Italy has not had an easy history, and here it was written plainly to see. We didn’t stop – it was only ever a brief dalliance, as we headed out of Italy and onto the Col de Mont Cenis. It was a very long and leisurely lunch on the col, with a beautiful view over the lake and a constant stream of bikes and supercars blatting past on the road outside. Coolest thing by far was the Triumph Spitfire – I still have a soft spot for those. The ride back into Lanslebourg was pretty straightforward until Michael caught sight of a Porsche GT3RS that was racing with a couple of BMWs, and just had to give chase. And I needed very little provocation indeed. We caught the group easily, but once the GT3 was past the BMWs, we had to let it go – after all, 450bhp against 25 is hardly a fair race. Still, it was fun while it lasted. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again but for the money, the little Scram is such a capable bike. You can fix it by the side of the road with a hammer, ride 500 miles in a day, and then rag it down a col at a non-trivial speed. Yeah, at times on the very fast corners it was all getting a bit weavy but more on that later… The evening was spent by the river eating local sausage. Pretty much a perfect day all round.

Wednesday was a lazy day. We rode up the valley to a massive old fort (the name of which escapes me now) but which is notable for a via ferrata that starts by crawling out of one of the windows. This is very much on my Big List of Things To Do Before I Die now. We decided to head back to the Col do Mont Cenis for lunch, to try one of the other restaurants there. The ride up the other side of what we’d ridden down the day before was good fun, and we stopped at the first restaurant to be met with an an absolute Fawlty Towers display of table service. We were served the wrong meals that were destined for another table, but as a couple of the plates matched, both Al and Michael tucked in before the plates were whipped away and delivered to the correct table, with a few mouthfuls missing. Trying to get the bill was the best bit, as the schoolage waiter just said “I’m not permitted to perform financial transactions” and fucked off. I suspect that they’d had a couple of regular staff phone in sick that morning, and were just scraping by with family and friends. Whatever, the food, when it arrived, was pleasant, and although we didn’t leave a tip, we took some memories away. Notes for today are rather slim, other than “formidable restaurant owner” which I’ll just leave there to remind me in future years when I read this back to myself.

Thursday was the start of the long haul back. The plan (which had changed about three times in the past 24 hours) was for Sylvain to head back home to Tournus, Al would carry on riding into Austria solo for a bit of an adventure, Mike and Ken would head back towards Châtillon-sur-Seine and find a campsite somewhere around halfway, and Michael and I would head back to Chancy, so the reverse of the ride that we did on Monday. I was up and about early, so just dropped my tent and packed everything into my panniers, and said my goodbyes to Sylvain and Al. I would be meeting Mike and Ken again at Châtillon-sur-Seine. The ride over the Iseran from the South was breathtaking, and bloody cold. I was in my full summer riding gear, and at the top it was something like 10 degrees C at this time of the day. My summer gloves are just not made for this and even when we hit the valley floor we were riding in shade for a good hour. We stopped at Bourg-Saint-Maurice for fuel and I couldn’t take my gloves off, as I just couldn’t feel my fingers any more. It took a good few minutes of resting them on my cylinder before a massive attack of the hot aches heralded the arrival of feeling once more. Riding as a pair rather than six, we made very good progress indeed and made it all the way back to the Col des Aravis for lunch, which was a massive plate of local charcuterie and the best bread I’ve had in ages. That, with the view of Mont Blanc over my left shoulder, made me realise just how much I was going to miss all of this when I got home, but that was effectively where I was headed now.

I also thought once more of my mum and dad, riding over these cols on an Ariel Leader back in the early 1960s, with none of the technical backup that we have these days. I have a lot to live up to – and while they’re both gone now, if I had the chance, I’d like to check that they’d approve of what I was up to. Thanks mum and dad – it’s because of you that I have these adventures. Back over Le Plateau des Glières, and before the offroad bit we stopped for our last coffee on the road – from here on, it would be solo. Again, the service was impeccable, with big smiles from our waitress. I’m sure that travelling with Michael helps here, as he is completely fluent in French (and many other languages) so when two English blokes turn up and are able to order in French, and then hold an easy conversation and make light-hearted jokes, that helps our European friends realise that we’re not all Nigel wannabees, and are happy to fit in together. The ride over the gravel bit, this time with just the two of us, was great. And for once I left Michael behind as I just hooked 2nd, stood up, and let the bike and tyres do what they do best. I could easily have pulled another gear but that would have just left a big cloud of dust and a big noise around the memorial, so I pulled it back a bit. We rolled into Chancy, opened a bottle of fizz, cooked dinner, and just flaked out. Michael and Jackie, I’m not sure you’ll ever read this, but thank you so much for the hospitality and love. My life is a lot richer.
The ride up to Châtillon-sur-Seine on Friday was due to be on little roads taking all day, but the forecast was brutally hot. And once I switched on data roaming on my phone in France, it immediately redirected me onto the autoroute with a three hour reduction in travel time. That was all I needed, so I just hit the major roads, and hung on. And again, the little Scram needs a mention here. It hit the 130km/h limit. Albeit on a long downhill stretch with a draught from a big SUV. But it did it. And then just held 110km/h all day as we rode North and the temperature climbed. And climbed. When I rode into Châtillon the local pharmacy sign said 42 degrees, and Ken later confirmed this when he rode in, as his Guzzi Stelvio read the same temperature. And that’s the hottest I’ve ever ridden in. I’ve experienced higher temperatures in Death Valley, but never on a bike. And it’s fucking terrifying that we’re seeing records broken by two or three degrees a year now. We spent the evening in the same pizza restaurant that we stopped in on Friday, and again, watched a million swifts circling around on the walk back to a very warm campsite and a last cold beer with mates before the final parting of the ways in the morning.
And so the final ride of the Alpine Extravaganza. Again, up and away early to get a few hours respite from the heat, and then just reel off the kilometres to Calais. Of course, there was an hour long queue for French border control, and I don’t blame them at all for that. I rolled back home at about 4pm after the usual M25 stasis and pothole dodging that is any UK motorway trip these days. What a week. All in, it was close on 3000kms. The little Scram needed a service once I got back, so as well as the normal stuff I also fitted a set of YSS cartridge emulators to the forks, to try and dial out that high speed weave without overly compromising low-speed compression damping. Whether these will work or not, we’ll see. First impressions on the Sunday morning sausage run are positive.
















